Fabric care guide

The care label comes first

The Federal Trade Commission requires clothing sold in the US to carry a care label that gives regular care instructions for washing or drycleaning, drying, bleaching and ironing, and that stays readable for the life of the garment. The label only has to give one safe method, and it may use symbols instead of words.

So a label that says hand wash does not promise the dress will survive a machine. It tells you the one method the maker stands behind.

Reading the fiber line

Fibers are listed by their generic name and percentage by weight, the largest first. Rayon and viscose are two accepted names for the same fiber, and so are spandex and elastane. A fiber under 5 percent can still be named when it has a clear job, such as spandex for stretch.

Chiffon, lace, satin, tulle and sequins are not fibers. They describe how the fabric is made, which is why a chiffon dress still reads "100% polyester" on its label.

Chiffon and lace

Both are open fabrics that catch on rings, zippers and velcro. Close the zipper before washing, turn the dress inside out and use a mesh laundry bag if the label allows a machine. Unless the label says tumble dry, hang lace and chiffon to dry.

Sequins and glitter

Sequins are stitched or glued on, and both give way to heat and friction. Follow the label, which on sequin gowns often limits you to gentle hand washing or spot cleaning, and never iron over the sequins.

Rayon and spandex blends

Rayon is soft and breathes well, but it is weaker when wet, so wring it gently if at all. Spandex gives the stretch in jersey and swim fabric and does not like high heat, which is why stretch dresses and swim pieces usually ask for cool water and air drying.

Swim fabric and UPF

UPF tells you how much ultraviolet light a fabric lets through. The Skin Cancer Foundation explains that a UPF 50 fabric lets about one fiftieth of the rays reach your skin, and rates 50 and up as excellent. It also warns that stretched or wet fabric loses some of that protection.

The American Academy of Dermatology adds that dark, tightly woven fabric protects better than light or see-through fabric, and that any skin clothing does not cover still needs a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher. Rinse swim pieces in fresh water after the pool or the sea.